519 E. Boston St., Covington (985) 898-0667; 3000 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie 309-4056;
As of press time, only two of Acme's three restaurant locations were open, with the Metairie eatery bustling on the site of an old Mexican restaurant. Seafood in every preparation is available, as are gumbo and many other Creole dishes. No reservations. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

144 Bourbon St. 522-0111;
Polished wood and a picture window on Bourbon Street are hallmarks of comparatively young Brennan's restaurant, which already has established itself as a classic. Look for high-end dishes such as jumbo Gulf shrimp Chippewa (with wild mushrooms and leeks in a seafood veloute), Louisiana caviar, and oysters fresh out of the shell. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

305 Covington St., Madisonville (985) 845-2348;
Quaint Madisonville has more than its share of seafood restaurants, and Coffee's Boilin' Pot has been in the town's central business district since 1984. It has a family atmosphere, is under new management, and is a place where patrons enjoy catfish Madisonville, a fried catfish fillet with crawfish-cream sauce. The entire restaurant is non-smoking. Reservations accepted for large parties. Lunch Thu.-Sun., dinner Tue.-Sun. Credit cards and checks. $$

1713 Lake Ave., Metairie 831-4141;
Big appetites and lovers of seafood flock to Deanie's in Bucktown for its extensive seafood menu, and to take home the catch of the day from the store next door. Barbecue shrimp comes as an appetizer or an entree, and seafood platters feed as many as four people. Weekends usually mean a wait, and the place closes at 5 p.m. on Sunday. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. Credit cards. $$

118 Harbor View Court, Slidell (985) 645-3625
Currently, the Dock of Slidell is offering a temporary limited menu of hamburgers, chicken sandwiches and nachos. But management is already looking forward to expanding the kitchen's offerings to its usual seafood-heavy menu. The bar is open late. No reservations. Lunch and early dinner Wed.-Sun. Credit cards. $

1820 Dickory Ave., Jefferson 736-9666
A casual neighborhood place in a town where folks love to frequent casual neighborhood places, Dockside Seafood sells plenty of fried seafood platters with soft-shell crabs to its regular patrons. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. Credit cards. $$

3232 N. Arnoult Road, Metairie 888-9254;
After Hurricane Katrina, Drago's gave away lunches to people who lined up outside its Fat City location. The lunches are no longer free, but locals still line up for lobster, barbecue shrimp po-boys and Drumfish Tommy. With four dining rooms on three floors, Drago's is always bustling. No reservations. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner Mon.-Sat. Credit cards. $$

133 Delaronde St. 361-8240;
At the Dry Dock Café, sit outside or look through the French doors at the Mississippi River and the Algiers ferry landing. Seafood platters, hamburger steaks, alligator sausage (in a po-boy or as an appetizer) are among the bestsellers and are consumed in a nautical-themed decor. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat. Cash only. $$

4938 Prytania St. 895-1330
The new outpost of a French Quarter favorite, Felix's Uptown offers seafood gumbo, oysters é Rockefeller and Bienville — and non-traditional side items such as cheese grits and collard greens. We sense another classic in the making. No reservations. Dinner Tue.-Sun. Credit cards. $$

100 Marina Del Ray Drive, Hwy 22., Madisonville (985) 792-4000
Two specialty sandwiches here will ensure you don't leave hungry: the Mighty River Burger is a 9-oz. patty smothered in saut é ed mushrooms and onions, and topped with bacon, cheddar and Swiss cheese, and the Tchefuncte Special Shrimp Po-Boy comes loaded with fried shrimp, bacon and Swiss. Or, opt for seafood gumbo, seafood baskets or salads. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Wed.-Sun. Credit cards. $$

1001 Decatur St. 525-7879;
French Market Restaurant dates back to 1803, and its historic building provides an old New Orleans backdrop to complement your meal. Char-grilled oysters and catfish in any preparation are requested by locals and tourists alike, and the balcony is enjoyable for socializing and people-watching. Reservations accepted for parties of five or more. Lunch and dinner Wed.-Mon. Credit cards. $$

2535 Metairie Road, Metairie 832-0955You may know The Galley as the soft-shell crab vendor at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, but at its home base on Metairie Road, the restaurant serves fried, grilled, boiled and blackened seafood as well as Creole specialties. A patio and 18-person private dining area add to the ambience. Reservations accepted for five or more. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Fri. Credit cards. $$

808 Bienville St. 581-3467;
Chef Tenney Flynn has created a seafood restaurant where fish are elevated to sophisticated heights. A large dining room and lots of natural light make it a friendly experience. Chilean sea bass is served with white shrimp, and lobster is offered two ways — as dumplings or split, fried and served with honey-Creole mustard sauce. Reservations recommended. Dinner Tue.-Sat. Credit cards. $$$

3203 Williams Blvd., Kenner 443-6454
In its location at a heavily traveled intersection of Williams Boulevard, Harbor Seafood features the bounty of the Gulf. One combo basket combines shrimp, oysters and soft-shell crab — all fried in canola oil, as is all of Harbor's fried seafood. The kitchen uses locally baked French bread for its po-boys. No reservations. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

2722 Williams Blvd., Kenner 468-3237
The menu at this Kenner eatery covers a lot of ground — from rib-eye steaks to a hefty seafood platter and Italian dishes such as lasagna and meatballs and spaghetti. Its clientele is a mix of locals and tourists, who tear themselves away from the French Quarter scene to dine in the suburbs. Reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

3140 W. Loyola Drive, Kenner 466-4701;
Kenner Seafood addresses any and every seafood desire with a long, comprehensive menu. Stuffed tilapia? It's there. Grilled tilapia? Blackened? It's all there, plus stuffed seafood dishes, pastas, appetizers (try the crab fingers) and fried plates. For good measure, it also offers fried chicken and other non-seafood dishes. Reservations accepted for large parties. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. Credit cards. $

30160 Hwy. 51, Manchac (985) 386-6666
Thin, fried catfish is by and large the most-requested menu item, and it's served on po-boys and as an entree. Boiled seafood, steaks and salads round out the offerings, but customers also come for the stunning view of Lake Maurepas. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. Credit cards. $$

702 Water St., Madisonville (985) 845-4970;
A view of the peaceful Tchefuncte River is served alongside seafood and Creole specialties here. Everything on the menu is homemade, from the shrimp and crab bisque and seafood gumbo to the remoulade and freshly fried platters. Reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner Wed.-Mon. Credit cards. $$

208 Lee Lane, Covington (985) 875-0432
Historic downtown Covington is a quaint and picturesque setting for this local restaurant. Crawfish stew replaces the traditional etouffee here, and the Boatload seafood platter can feed two people, or one with a to-go box. No reservations. Lunch Mon.-Sat., dinner Fri.-Sat. Credit cards. $$

817 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie 837-3382; 6920 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie 455-1272; 1005 S. Clearview Pkwy., Jefferson 734-1122;
The lines get long at this seafood place, but the efficient staff handles crowds easily and politely. The usual seafood choices are available, cooked properly and personalized at a condiment bar, where you dress your po-boy yourself. The blackened mahi salad, with Asian inspirations, is a nice complement to the New Orleans staples. No reservations. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

Pontchartrain Point Café
8536 Pontchartrain Blvd. 282-4233
West End may be but a faded pleasant memory, but Pontchartrain Boulevard is still pretty close to the dream. The kitchen serves the pasta dish called shrimp Louise, with sauteed shrimp, tasso and Alfredo sauce; the "Black and Blue Tuna Salad," with blackened tuna and blue cheese crumbles; standards such as trout meuniere and more. Reservations for groups of six or more. Lunch Wed.-Mon., dinner Fri-Sat. Credit cards. $$

519 Toulouse St. 522-5226;
Children and adults are always fascinated by the aquarium at Ralph and Kacoo's, though its new residents are still on the small side, having been installed well after Hurricane Katrina. As for the fish you eat rather than watch, the Ruby is a broiled fish fillet with crab meat stuffing, Hollandaise sauce and lump crab meat, served with Cajun-stuffed potatoes. A special of half a lobster is also stuffed with crab meat stuffing and is served with fettuccine. Reservations accepted for large groups. Lunch Sat.-Sun., dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

115 Bourbon St. 598-1200;
One of the many establishments that sprang from the Brennan clan, Red Fish Grill uses the bounty of the Gulf of Mexico to craft its New Orleans-inspired dishes. Chef Gregg Collier, who has trained with Emeril Lagasse and the late Commander's Palace Chef Jamie Shannon, creates entrees such as sweet potato-crusted catfish with andouille cream, and seafood gumbo — with andouille or alligator sausage. Louisiana's favorite dessert, bread pudding, comes in two varieties: praline or double chocolate. Reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

7163 Barataria Blvd., Crown Point 689-7834
This restaurant is nestled among moss-draped trees in the bayou town of Crown Point. Savor the shrimp Diane — shrimp sauteed in garlic-butter sauce and served over angel hair pasta, while you gaze out of a massive picture window onto Bayou des Familles. Wildlife might venture into view, but the scene is impressive even without Louisiana's fauna, especially at night. The restaurant closes at 6 p.m. on Sunday. Reservations recommended on weekends. Lunch and dinner Wed.-Sun. Credit cards. $$

800 S. Peters St. 525-3474;
RioMar might appear to be a trendy downtown restaurant thanks to its location in the Warehouse District, but it's really a neighborhood place with a clientele of locals. Chef Adolfo Garcia changes the menu weekly, but you can count on grilled tuna (sometimes wrapped in Serrano ham and served with chickpea puree) and the stunning tapas slection. No reservations. Lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat. Credit cards. $$

1340 S. Carrollton Ave. 324-6640
This neighborhood seafood joint has endeared itself to Uptowners. Chef Russell recently added char-grilled oysters, as well as a spinach, artichoke and crabmeat dip, both of which, he claims, have been "rockin' out the door." Reservations accepted for parties of five or more. Call for hours. Credit cards. $$

509 S. Tyler St., Covington (985) 892-3287
Seafood Galley has operated in its new space on South Tyler Street in Covington since October, and already they've played to packed houses. The shrimp, oyster or catfish plates are popular, as well as the ribeye steaks, and the noise level jumps with the friendly chatter between tables. Reservations accepted Mon.-Thu. Lunch Mon.-Sat., dinner Tue.-Sat. Credit cards. $$

279 Hickory Ave., Harahan 738-1116
The long list of seafood possibilities offered here include simple fare such as boiled crabs, shrimp and, starting this week, crawfish — plus more complex entrees such as soft-shell crab in a seafood cream sauce, served over a bed of angel hair pasta. There's also tangy BBQ or blackened shrimp, and specialty appetizers including the eggplant Harahan — fried eggplant with stuffed crab in a seafood cream sauce. Reservations accepted for large parties. Lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat. Credit cards. $

5725 Jefferson Hwy., Harahan 733-3000
Five dining rooms allow this Harahan landmark to host weddings and private parties right alongside regular diners. Beef brisket and crab cakes are among Smilie's bestsellers. Reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

1303 W. Esplanade Ave., Kenner 443-4040
The locals love Stingray's, where they come for giant seafood platters and seafood specialties such as shrimp Nicole or crawfish Boudreaux, both made with pasta and cream sauce. Go to the bar afterward for a quick drink and to mingle with other people from the neighborhood. No reservations. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. (till 7 p.m. on Sun.) Credit cards. $$

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