There's a new chef at the helm of Emeril's Delmonico (1300 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-4937; www.emerilsrestaurants.com) and a revamped menu as well. Anthony Scanio, previously the restaurant's executive sous chef, is now chef de cuisine. He replaces Spencer Minch, who has left the company, says a spokeswoman for Lagasse.
Like previous menus here, Scanio's starts with a long list of charcuterie and cheeses and includes dry-aged steaks. There are fewer of these steaks, however, and a greater emphasis on contemporary Creole dishes such as jumbo Gulf shrimp fricassee, smothered chicken, drum meuniere, chorizo-stuffed pork loin with Old New Orleans Rum-based jus and grilled Gulf swordfish.
It's the latest change for a restaurant with a long history in New Orleans. Delmonico was first opened in 1895 by Anthony Commander, a member of the family that originally opened Commander's Palace. It was named after – but not related to — the much older Delmonico restaurant in New York. Lagasse, who began his own New Orleans career at Commander's Palace, bought the Delmonico property in 1997.