Before St. Claude and Claiborne avenues meet their respective bridges, the upper 9th Ward's last stop is a tree-lined strip anchored by a glimpse of old school New Orleans (inside the neon-lit dining room at seafood hub Jack Dempsey's) as well as the new. Local and national musicians moonlight as avant-garde performance artists at the Music Box Village on Rampart Street at the edge of the Industrial Canal, and technicolor dive Bar Redux hosts poetry readings, alternative artists and other fringe- focused events.
Who you'll see:
Barflies, service industry workers, people on dates.
Where to eat:
You'll smell the neighborhood's venerable smokehouse The Joint on Mazant Street before you see it.
Where to drink:
The two-story, illuminated tiki courtyard at Bacchanal for wine and cheese or small (and big) plates, and Parleaux Beer Lab for small-batch microbrews and pop-up restaurateurs.
Where to get the blues:
Cash-only dive BJ's Lounge for people-watching, solitary bar hanging or catching blues guitarists, singer-songwriters and barroom rock 'n' roll.
You oughta know
A vacant naval base looming over the foot of Poland Avenue and Chartres Street was built in 1919.