Curtains for Peristyle Chef/owner Tom Wolfe closed his French Quarter restaurant Peristyle last week, though he also announced plans to open a new restaurant in the same location in September. According to Wolfe's publicist, the new restaurant will feature small plates, a chef's tasting menu and dishes that are "more creative than the French contemporary menu" for which Peristyle was known, though some of the most popular items from the old menu will live on. Peristyle had a relatively long and exceptionally tumultuous tenure. Chef John Neal founded the restaurant in 1992. When he died in 1995, his protégé Anne Kearney Sand bought the restaurant and built its stature to the top tier of New Orleans restaurants. The restaurant was gutted by fire in 1999 but reopened the following year. By 2004, however, Kearney Sand sold Peristyle to Wolfe and moved back to her native Ohio, where she now runs a restaurant called Rue Dumaine. Wolfe is also chef/owner of Wolfe's in the Warehouse (859 Convention Center Blvd., 613-2882). New York Meets Chicago The specialties of two cities with decidedly stronger pizza traditions than New Orleans are represented at That's Amore (4421 Clearview Pkwy., Metairie, 454-5885; www.thatsamorepizzaonline.com), a new pizzeria opened by Kevin and Amanda Price . The thin-crust New York-style pizza is available in sizes from 10 inches all the way up to giant 24-inch pies. The deep-dish Chicago-style pizza is made in both circular and rectangular renditions. The menu also includes soups, salads and pasta dishes like lasagna and beef ravioli. That's Amore is open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday (but is closed from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.) and is open for dinner on Sunday. Food to Stay A mobile catering operation dubbed Food to Geaux has set down roots in the Faubourg Marigny, moving into permanent digs as Nighthawks Diner and Spirits (2529 Dauphine St., 342-2176; www.nighthawkdiner.com). The windowless brick building long known as the Harbor Restaurant and more recently as Café Unique has a bar up front and a diner in back. In addition to egg plates, pancakes and dishes like biscuits and gravy, the diner has vegan options like "mock roast on toast," and a grilled gluten slab sandwich. The ham, cut thick and grilled crusty, is recommended. The kitchen is open daily from 7 a.m. to midnight, and the bar stays open later. McNulty
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