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California dreaming


"One of the most mistreated of Louisiana's foods is the po' boy, which in the rest of the country could be any old fried shrimp or oyster sandwich on some kind of roll with shredded lettuce and mayo. ... Fried oysters, bread and mayonnaise is an inherently delicious combination, so the results are seldom as horrifying as, say, the blunt, salty sludge that passes as gumbo in most non-Louisiana establishments. But still: Once you've had the real thing — once you've stood sweating in a line that snakes around a worn room, and chosen from seafood but also sausage and roast beef and turkey breast — it's hard to go back to those sad approximations."

— Besha Rodell of the LA Weekly, reviewing Little Jewel of New Orleans, a po-boy shop that's opened in Los Angeles' Chinatown.

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