Breakfast on Banks



A new breakfast spot called Huevos (4408 Bank St., 482-6264) opens today in Mid-City, serving a short menu of Mexican-style egg dishes.

It's another new addition to the city's mysteriously short list of casual breakfast joints, and it's also a nimble turn for the restaurant's owners, who saw themselves doing something quite different just a few months ago.

By the start of 2009, owners Jeff Baron and Bart Bell fully expected to have their gourmet pizza shop Crescent Pie and Sausage open in Mid-City. That plan suffered a delay in the most dramatic fashion when Hurricane Gustav blew down the dilapidated, one-time appliance repair shop they were renovating for their new restaurant.

Baron says they hope to begin construction on a new building for the pizza shop in the coming weeks and open in time for Jazz Fest, a timeline which would seem to call for a Herculean effort and a few miracles of permitting efficiency based on the state of the site today (see below).

In the meantime, he and Bell decided to turn the adjacent building into their new breakfast restaurant.

Huevos serves coffee from Bywater-based roaster Try Me Mills and baked goods from Alois J. Binder's Bakery as well as those made by Bell in house. The menu lists just five dishes, and none of them are the expected pancakes, waffles, etc., but each is distinctive. The huevos rancheros are made with a charred-tomato salsa, for instance, while the breakfast burrito is filled with spicy chaurice sausage made by Bell. The "huevos con tamal" pairs three tamales with two poached eggs and salsa verde.

Huevos is closed Wednesdays, but otherwise opens daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

--Ian McNulty


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