Boswell Atkinson had been lying low since the storm, looking for a place to reopen his Boswell's Jamaican Grill, reviewed in this week's issue.
Those with a jones for jerk or the other great standards of Jamaican cooking can feel fortunate he did. Prices are reasonable here, portions are large and there is nothing at all modest about the flavors, especially at the higher end of the spicy heat scale.
For more heat still, even a small dose from one of the scattered bottles of mustard-yellow, seed-speckled Matouk's Calypso-brand Scotch bonnet pepper sauce will seriously amp things up. The responsible party is pictured to the right of this jerk chicken and pork combo plate. This stuff makes most Louisiana-style pepper sauces taste like ketchup, so if you use it proceed with caution.