"Chefs of America: embrace the entree. Embrace the challenge of creating a dish that is balanced and enjoyable, arrives at the same time for the entire table and meets the nutritional needs of your customer. The dining experience is not about you and your convenience. It is about creating an enjoyable place where people will come and spend their hard-earned money. The small-plates phenomenon is a fraud, wrought upon all of us."
— Washington Post columnist and economics editor Neil Irwin, from a recent screed against the small-plates format, which he argues works better for chefs than for diners.