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Liberty Cheesesteaks on Freret


  Everyone in New Orleans knows that some roast beef on any old French bread does not make a proper roast beef po-boy, and in the same way steak and cheese slapped together doesn't necessarily make a cheesesteak. That's why the proprietors of the new Liberty Cheesesteaks (5031 Freret St., 504-875-4447; take some laborious but, as they see it, crucial steps to make cheesesteaks in a way Philadelphians would recognize as true to form.

  Mike Casey and Joe Seremet formally opened Liberty Cheesesteaks last week after an extended run of trial openings, bringing one more specialized option for casual eats to the Freret Street restaurant row.

  They took over the tiny original location of Dat Dog, which moved across the street, and the menu gets right to the point. There are cheesesteaks, fries, grilled cheese sandwiches for kids and soft drinks. The cheesesteak options follow a few generally accepted variations on the standard. There's a pizza steak with mozzarella and marinara, for instance, and a chicken steak. A big question for aficionados concerns the cheese. Will it be American, provolone or Cheez Whiz? All have their adherents in Philly, where partisanship runs high.

  Liberty Cheesesteaks serves lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

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