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Uglesich's Revisited Retired restaurateurs Anthony and Gail Uglesich will reopen their shuttered Central City restaurant Uglesich's (1238 Baronne St., phone n.a.; www.uglesichs.com) for one day this week, Saturday, April 26, to host a book signing for their son John Uglesich 's new cookbook, Cooking with the Uglesiches . The book, published recently by Gretna-based Pelican Publishing , features recipes and stories from the family's former restaurant, which opened in 1924 as a humble neighborhood joint and in later years evolved to become a destination for foodies until it closed in May 2005. The cookbook is the second to emerge from the restaurant. Uglesich's Restaurant Cookbook , also written by John Uglesich, was published by Pelican in 2004. Saturday's event is from 10 a.m. to noon. Admission is free and food will be served. Notches Kicked Up at Noon Emeril's Restaurant (800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393; www.emerils.com) has expanded its hours to include lunch on weekdays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. The menu includes some star dishes from the restaurant's dinner repertoire, like smoked exotic mushrooms, andouille-crusted redfish and Lagasse 's take on New Orleans barbecue shrimp. But chef de cuisine David Slater has also added many new items to the daytime list, such as salmon gravlax cured in house and served with marinated fennel, a "lamburger" served with chickpea fries and an interpretation of pasta carbonara made with shrimp, clams and tobiko. The restaurant is also open for dinner nightly. Oyster Loading Those who follow the old adage that Gulf oysters are best enjoyed during months spelled with the letter "R" must surely be in the homestretch of seasonal consumption by this point in April. In last hurrah fashion, Begue's Restaurant (300 Bourbon St., 553-2278; www.sonesta.com/royalneworleans/) offers a five-course "Oyster Lovers Feast" menu, available this Friday and Saturday evening. The special menu begins with an amuse bouche in the form of a cucumber mojito oyster shooter and continues through a roster of pancetta oyster with crabmeat and Dijon mustard cream, barbecue oyster salad with crumbled Stilton and pickled red onion, oyster Gerard, oyster-crusted tenderloin with Louisiana strawberry reduction and, finally, oyster brulee and oyster beignets. The meal includes a different wine from Kendall-Jackson with each course. The cost is $75 per person. — McNulty

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