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Cheesesteaks in Bywater

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  Finding a good Philly cheesesteak is not an easy proposition in this town, but things have improved lately.

  The local standard for comparison is the one served at Stein's Deli & Market (2207 Magazine St., 527-0771; www.-steinsdeli.net), though it's only available on Tuesdays as a special. There's a good example on the daily menu at Jims (3000 Royal St., 304-8224), which opened earlier this year inside Studio Inferno in the Bywater. And more recently, Jughead's (801 Poland Ave., 304-5411; www.jug- headsneworleans.com) has started cooking steak sandwiches.

  Jughead's is in the stout cinderblock building that formerly housed The Joint, which moved to bigger digs (701 Mazant St., 949-3232; www.alwayssmokin.com) a few blocks away.

  Jughead's menu is short and simple: cheesesteaks, a chicken sandwich done in the same style, BLTs with or without chicken, a vegetable sandwich and Caesar salads with steak or chicken. Sandwiches are made with crusty banh mi-style loaves. The cheesesteak I tried was loaded with chopped cloves of griddle-hot garlic and melted provolone bound the onions, peppers and mushrooms to slices of rib-eye.

  Jughead's is the first restaurant from John Delamater and Lisa Rahon. Delamater is a carpenter, and he personally renovated the space. The interior has been redone, but more significantly, the back courtyard, where The Joint had its massive smoker, now features a covered patio with a bar and a large TV. Jughead's serves lunch and dinner daily.

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