by Sarah Baird
Toast, the highly anticipated breakfast spot from the folks behind Tartine, opened its doors this drizzly morning for neighbors eager to get a first taste of a menu that’s refreshingly off-the-beaten path.
While the space (former home of Laurel Street Bakery) is small, rattan-style chairs, light wood, and a warm chartreuse paint job make it feel both cozy and inviting, while ample natural light helps spotlight a gigantic mural of bridges over glistening water.
The aebelskivers are as delightful as promised, with a dense, fluffy texture and rich, egg-heavy batter that is simultaneously light and filling. The lemon curd (one of several topping options) has been thinned enough to be a successful sauce, and adds a welcome citrus note to the Danish pancakes.
Portions are generous, with cinnamon rolls and biscuits as big as bread plates, and particular attention paid to dishes that feature (you guessed it) toast as a foundational element. The indulgent option of toast with honey, prosciutto, and ricotta is a particularly alluring way to shake up a stale breakfast routine, but simpler options, like toast with avocado and egg, also are winners.