by Ian McNulty
There’s a new chef at the helm of Emeril’s Delmonico, and a revamped menu as well. Anthony Scanio, previously the restaurant’s executive sous chef, is now chef de cuisine, a position which oversees all culinary operations for chef/owner Emeril Lagasse.
Scanio replaces Spencer Minch, who has left the company, according to a spokeswoman for Lagasse. Minch had held the position since 2007, working his way up from a line cook position in the same kitchen in 2001.
Scanio similarly started at Emeril’s Delmonico working the line. A New Orleans native, he left a job teaching English to pursue a culinary career while in his late twenties. He worked at Herbsaint and the now-defunct Mid-City restaurant Café Indo before joining Emeril Lagasse’s company in 2005. He was promoted to sous chef a year later and to executive sous chef in 2009.
Like previous menus here, Scanio’s starts with a long list of charcuterie and cheeses and includes dry-aged steaks. There are fewer of these steaks, however, and a greater emphasis on contemporary Creole dishes, like a jumbo Gulf shrimp fricassee, smothered chicken with bacon and wild rice pilaf, drum meuniere, chorizo-stuffed pork loin with an Old New Orleans Rum-based jus and grilled Gulf swordfish.
It’s the latest change for a restaurant with a long history in New Orleans. Delmonico was first opened in 1895 by Anthony Commander, a member of the same family that had earlier opened Commander’s Palace, according to “Lost Restaurants of New Orleans,” the 2011 book by Peggy Scott Laborde and Tom Fitzmorris. It was named after — but not related to — the much older Delmonico restaurant in New York. Lagasse, who began his own New Orleans career at Commander’s Palace, bought the Delmonico property in 1997.
The restaurant serves dinner daily.
1300 St. Charles Ave., 525-4937