Deciphering the Green Goddess

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A Web site is up for the Green Goddess, the new restaurant opened last week by chef Chris DeBarr. It's a good idea for any restaurant to promote itself online these days, but the Web site is especially helpful in the case of the Green Goddess, since it does a good job of explaining a restaurant that defies easy categorization.

This is a place with a lengthy and original vegetarian tasting menu, paired with nonalcoholic beverages, yet also makes a meatloaf from bison and bacon.

This is a place where the larder includes something as locally rare as the Mexican corn fungus called huitlacoche (used in the crepes here) but where the menu gives a shout-out to Mid-City sausage maker Creole Country and Kenner's Maricante's Gourmet Sausage.

It's a restaurant that takes in a big wide world of culinary influence and ingredients, and serves it in one of the city's smallest restaurant spaces. It was most recently the Central American joint Jazz Tacos, though its hit parade of past tenants includes original locations of the New Orleans Cake Café, Lulu's and Old Dog New Trick.

Green Goddess is open for lunch Wednesday through Sunday and dinner Thursday through Sunday.

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